Blog Post

The Quality of Cedar

nate • February 10, 2025

I'd like to share here some thoughts I have regarding the Quality of Cedar.  I'm sure that some cedar shingle vendor somewhere in North America will read this, call me, and have a stroke as they yell at me over the phone, but I'm calling this like I see it.  If anyone cares to argue my points here, be aware that my first question to them will be, "Do YOU have 15,000+ hours spent cleaning cedar of all types and conditions, in all ways, since 2010?"  If the answer is No, well, you've been warned. 


On a regular basis, I'll find myself assessing the exterior of a cedar home in need of cleaning while the homeowner walks with me, telling me how much they paid five or ten years ago for the "highest quality" cedar siding or roofing.   No doubt the homeowner paid an actual fortune for their cedar roof or siding, but the time the cedar shingles I'm looking at are nearly always the common, regular, R&R Extra or Perfection white cedar shingles that we see on literally everything on Cape Cod from $3M mansions to, well, my house. 


Invariably, the homeowners have been convinced by somebody* that their cedar siding is of the Highest Quality.  And, they have reason to think that, even if they're wrong.  Our friends at the Cedar Shake and Shingle Bureau grade the quality of cedar shingles as follows:


  1. Extra (Clear/Perfection)
  2. Highest quality grade.
  3. Made from 100% heartwood with a fine, straight grain.
  4. No knots, defects, or imperfections.
  5. Uniform thickness and width.
  6. Ideal for high-end roofing and siding projects where durability and appearance are important.
  7. Clear (Select)
  8. High-quality shingles with some minor imperfections.
  9. May contain a few small knots above the exposure line.
  10. Mostly straight grain with slight variations.
  11. Second Clear (Architectural)
  12. More knots and natural defects than Clear grade.
  13. Knots are typically sound and located above the exposure line.
  14. Suitable for siding, rustic applications, or areas where minor imperfections are acceptable.
  15. Utility (Third Grade)
  16. Still more knots and imperfections throughout.
  17. Typically not recommended for roofing due to reduced durability.
  18. Often used for utility applications, sheds, or decorative purposes.
  19. Undercoursing (Fourth Grade)
  20. Lowest grade, not suitable for exterior exposure.
  21. Often used for starter courses, underlayment, or areas not visible in the final installation.


While I'm at it, "R&R" is a term homeowners often throw into the this-must-be-quality-stuff argument.  R&R shingles are typically associated with higher-quality grades because they are precision-cut for a refined and uniform look.  However, R&R does not define the grade itself—it is a processing method applied to shingles, often in the Extra (Perfection) or Clear grades.  R&R stands for "Rebutted & Rejointed."  This refers to a finishing process where:


  • Rebutted: The butt end of the shingle is trimmed to be smooth and uniform in thickness.
  • Rejointed: The sides of the shingle are trimmed for straight, parallel edges, ensuring a clean and consistent appearance when installed.


R&R shingles are easier to install and provide a more uniform, finished appearance.  They are often used for siding applications rather than roofing because of their smooth, straight edges. 


Here on Cape Cod, we only really see Extra or Clear white cedar shingles being used for bare siding applications.  During supply chain disruptions of COVID, we saw a brief period of time where only Architecture or Utility (i.e. knotted) white cedar shingles were available.  Because builders couldn't get their certificates of occupancy until the siding was completed, we saw McMansions being finished with knotted white cedar shingles, but that was a rare anomaly. 


Here's my issue with all of this: are we talking about appearance, or are we talking about quality?  Nicer appearance often means higher cost... Are we assuming that nice appearance equals high quality?  Yes, many people are (homeowners, for starters).  And  that's generally a mistake


As I've previously written, white cedar siding from the 70's is typically in much better condition than white cedar siding from the early 2000's.  Having cleaned cedar since 2011 or so, it's been impossible not to notice that the grain on old cedar shingles is much tighter than on typical new cedar shingles.  The pic below doesn't show cedar, but it illustrates what I observe in my daily work:

cedar
siding
shingles
quality
R&R
cleaning
Cape Cod

In my experience, old white cedar siding is far denser, stronger, and mold-resistant than the fancy new stuff. (Case in point: in 2024 a contractor asked me to clean mold from nine square of white cedar shingles which hadn't even been installed on a home's siding yet.. it was still in bundles!). 


Why would that be?  Well, like most other types of wood in North America, the old-growth stuff is becoming increasingly hard or expensive to come by.  Newer-growth trees from "managed farms" may be more sustainable, and replanting efforts are contributing to new supply, but the younger, quicker-raised wood just isn't the same as that from the truly wild, old-growth forests.  House framers and furniture makers have been saying the same things about their woods for years. 


So, how would I Nate Church list the quality of cedar, from best to worse?  Let's zoom out, and start with something the Cedar Bureau's grading system above completely overlooks: cedar type. 


  1. Alaskan Yellow Cedar (Best)
  2. Most durable of these three cedar—extremely resistant to rot, decay, and insects.
  3. Naturally dense and tight-grained, making it highly weather-resistant.
  4. Harder and stronger than both Western Red and Eastern White Cedar.
  5. Western Red Cedar (Good)
  6. High natural resistance to rot, insects, and moisture due to natural oils.
  7. Good stability, but can be prone to minor cupping or warping over time.
  8. Eastern White Cedar (Worst.)
  9. Least durable.
  10. Softer and lighter, making it more susceptible to wear and damage over time.
  11. Prone to checking (small cracks) and cupping in extreme weather.
  12. Requires staining or finishing for maximum longevity.


Type of cedar aside, from each type of cedar can be milled either shingles or  shakes.  Shingles are smaller and thinner and typically have a more uniform, refined appearance.   Shakes are big, thick things, usually but not always rougher and more rustic in appearance than shingles. 



cedar shakes
cedar
shake
cedar shingles
cedar
shingle

Shingles are way, wayyyyyyyyy cheaper than the thicker, larger shakes, and so nearly all homes on Cape Cod are clad in shingles.  But guess what?  Thicker, larges pieces of wood tend to be more robust and to last far longer than smaller, thinner ones.  Go figure!  For that reason, in my book, shakes are ALWAYS "better quality" than shingles. 


But, again, here on Cape Cod we see white cedar shingles.  Some lumber yards carry red cedar shingles, and some even carry yellow, but it's all shingles.  All of it.  It's a money thing: shingles look prettiest and cost the least. 


So, if you define Quality by nice appearance at a low cost, then go for the white cedar R&R extras.   But if quality is defined by longevity, then the entire picture is upended.  Go for Alaskan Yellow cedar, and go for shakes. 


Or, maybe, even don't go with cedar at all. 







* = lumber yard salesmen, contractors, etc. 


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cost of cedar, cedar siding
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